What are the main types of acids used in chemical exfoliation?

Main Types of Acids Used in Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation, or skin peeling using chemical substances, is one of the most effective ways to improve skin appearance, promote renewal, and treat various dermatological issues. The type of acid used plays a crucial role, as different acids have distinct properties, penetration levels, and effects on the skin.

Below is a breakdown of the main acids used in chemical peels, along with their characteristics and applications.

I. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)

AHA acids are water-soluble and primarily derived from fruits and milk. They work mainly on the surface of the skin, removing dead cells and stimulating collagen production. They are ideal for dry, dull, or aging skin.

Most Important AHA Acids:

1. Glycolic Acid
   • Source: Sugar cane.
   • Properties: The smallest molecule among AHAs, allowing the deepest skin penetration.
   • Effects: Exfoliation, hydration, brightening, wrinkle reduction, and texture improvement.
   • Applications: Aging skin, sun damage, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone.
2. Lactic Acid
   • Source: Milk and sugar fermentation.
   • Properties: Gentler than glycolic acid but highly moisturizing.
   • Effects: Exfoliation, brightening, elasticity improvement, antibacterial properties.
   • Applications: Dry, sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation, irritation-prone skin.
3. Mandelic Acid
   • Source: Bitter almonds.
   • Properties: Larger molecules make it milder than glycolic and lactic acid.
   • Effects: Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin tone-improving properties.
   • Applications: Oily, combination, acne-prone, and hyperpigmented skin.
4. Malic Acid
   • Source: Apples and other fruits.
   • Properties: Medium-sized molecules, helping retain moisture.
   • Effects: Gentle exfoliation, hydration, and radiance enhancement.
   • Applications: Dull, tired, dehydrated skin.
5. Citric Acid
   • Source: Citrus fruits.
   • Properties: Antioxidant properties.
   • Effects: Exfoliation, brightening, and free radical protection.
   • Applications: Pigmented, dull, or uneven skin.

II. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)

BHA acids are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate pores and effectively cleanse the skin. They are especially recommended for oily, acne-prone skin with blackheads.

Most Important BHA Acid:

1. Salicylic Acid
   • Source: Willow bark, certain plants.
   • Properties: Dissolves sebum and exfoliates inside pores, with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects.
   • Effects: Reduces blackheads, inflammation, and regulates sebum production.
   • Applications: Oily, acne-prone, and blemish-prone skin.

III. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA)

PHA acids are a newer generation of exfoliating acids that work similarly to AHAs but are gentler, making them ideal for sensitive skin.

Most Important PHA Acids:

1. Lactobionic Acid
   • Properties: Strong hydrating and antioxidant effects.
   • Effects: Soothes irritation, moisturizes, and improves skin elasticity.
   • Applications: Dry, sensitive, atopic, irritation-prone skin.
2. Gluconolactone
   • Properties: Milder exfoliation than AHA, with antioxidant effects.
   • Effects: Free radical protection, regeneration, and hydration.
   • Applications: Sensitive, redness-prone, or couperose skin.

IV. Trichloroacetic and Dichloroacetic Acids

1. Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)
   • Properties: Very strong exfoliating action.
   • Effects: Deep exfoliation, scar and wrinkle reduction, hyperpigmentation correction.
   • Applications: Skin requiring intensive renewal, deep scars, photoaging.
2. Dichloroacetic Acid (DCA)
   • Properties: Similar to TCA but milder.
   • Effects: Exfoliation and skin texture improvement.
   • Applications: Skin rejuvenation, scar and hyperpigmentation reduction.

V. Organic and Specialized Acids

1. Ferulic Acid
   • Properties: Strong antioxidant, enhances the effects of vitamins C and E.
   • Effects: Protects against free radicals, improves skin tone.
   • Applications: Anti-aging, pigmentation, protective treatment.
2. Azelaic Acid
   • Properties: Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory.
   • Effects: Reduces acne, hyperpigmentation, and brightens the skin.
   • Applications: Couperose skin, rosacea, hyperpigmentation-prone skin.

In our opinion

The choice of the appropriate exfoliating acid depends on skin type and concerns:

• AHA – for dry, dull, aging skin.
• BHA – for oily, acne-prone skin with enlarged pores.
• PHA – for sensitive and couperose skin.
• TCA/DCA – for deep medical peels.
• Ferulic and Azelaic Acid – for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and acne-fighting benefits.

Properly chosen acids can effectively improve skin condition, reduce dermatological problems, and restore a healthy, radiant complexion.

Compendium of knowledge about Acid Exfoliation

• What is a chemical peel?
• What are the main types of acids used in chemical exfoliation?
• What effects can be achieved with a chemical peel?
• What are the indications for a chemical peel?
• Is a chemical peel suitable for all skin types?
• What are the contraindications for a chemical peel?
• How does the skin regeneration process look after the treatment?
• What are the differences between superficial, medium-depth, and deep peels?
• How often can a chemical peel be performed?
• Is acid exfoliation painful?
• What side effects can occur after a chemical peel?
• Can a chemical peel be done in summer?
• How to prepare the skin for a chemical peel?
• What post-treatment recommendations should be followed after a chemical peel?
• Can makeup be applied after a chemical peel?
• Do chemical peels help reduce acne scars?
• Which acids are best for acne-prone skin?
• Does a chemical peel help fight wrinkles?
• What are the differences between a chemical peel and microdermabrasion?
• Can a chemical peel be combined with other cosmetic treatments?