What is chemical peeling?

Chemical Peel – What It Is and How It Works

A chemical peel is a cosmetic or dermatological procedure that involves controlled exfoliation of the epidermis and/or deeper layers of the skin using chemical substances. Its goal is to improve skin condition, reduce discoloration, smooth wrinkles, enhance elasticity, and treat various skin issues such as acne or acne scars.

Types of Chemical Peels

Chemical peels differ in intensity and penetration depth. The three main types are:

1. Superficial Peel

  • Affects only the outermost layer of the epidermis.
  • Common agents: mandelic acid, glycolic acid (low concentration), lactic acid, salicylic acid.
  • Effects: skin brightening, hydration, mild evening of skin tone, reduction of minor discoloration.
  • Indications: dry, dull skin, early signs of aging, mild acne.
  • Recovery time: minimal or none (may experience slight peeling).

2. Medium-Depth Peel

  • Reaches the basal layer of the epidermis and the upper layer of the dermis.
  • Common agents: trichloroacetic acid (TCA) up to 35%, glycolic acid (higher concentration), acid blends.
  • Effects: wrinkle smoothing, reduction of discoloration, improved skin firmness, treatment of acne scars.
  • Indications: photoaging, acne scars, pigmentation irregularities.
  • Recovery time: several days to a week (redness, peeling, tightness).

3. Deep Peel

  • Penetrates the deeper layers of the dermis.
  • Common agents: phenol, high concentrations of TCA.
  • Effects: significant skin rejuvenation, smoothing of deep wrinkles, reduction of extensive scars and pigmentation.
  • Indications: deep wrinkles, scars, severely sun-damaged skin.
  • Recovery time: up to several weeks, redness, intense peeling, potential complications (strict adherence to aftercare instructions is necessary).

How Is a Chemical Peel Performed?

  1. Consultation and Qualification – a specialist assesses the skin condition and selects the appropriate chemical agent and concentration.
  2. Skin Preparation – cleansing and, often, pre-treatment with a mild acid (e.g., low-concentration glycolic acid) for a few days before the procedure.
  3. Application of the Acid – applying the selected peeling agent to the skin for a specific period (from a few seconds to several minutes).
  4. Neutralization (if required) – some acids require neutralization with a special solution.
  5. Completion of the Procedure – applying a soothing and protective cream.

Effects and Post-Treatment Care

  • Immediately after the procedure – the skin may appear red, tight, and slightly irritated.
  • In the following days – peeling, slight swelling, or temporary darkening of the skin may occur.
  • Important aftercare guidelines:
    • Use moisturizing and regenerating creams.
    • Avoid sun exposure (essential to use SPF 50 sunscreen).
    • Do not pick at peeling skin.

Contraindications for Chemical Peels

  • Pregnancy and breastfeeding.
  • Active skin infections (e.g., herpes, severe inflammatory acne).
  • Recent tanning.
  • Allergy to peeling ingredients.
  • Autoimmune diseases (e.g., psoriasis, vitiligo).
  • Highly sensitive or keloid-prone skin.

Is a Chemical Peel Safe?

A chemical peel is safe when performed by an experienced professional, and the patient follows the recommended aftercare. If performed incorrectly or if post-procedure care is neglected, complications such as hyperpigmentation, irritation, or scarring may occur.

A chemical peel is an effective skin renewal method but requires proper selection of the peeling agent and post-treatment care to achieve the desired results without risks.

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